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PFAS in Activewear: What It Is, Why It Matters, and How to Avoid It

PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are a class of synthetic chemicals used in manufacturing processes across many industries, including textiles. In activewear, they appear as fluoropolymer coatings applied to fabrics for water repellency and stain resistance. They are associated with hormone disruption, immune function impairment, and cancer risk at elevated exposure levels. They do not break down in the environment or in the human body, which is why they are called forever chemicals. Avoiding PFAS in activewear means choosing garments made from natural or plant-derived fibers without DWR fluoropolymer treatments, ideally with third-party certification confirming the absence of these substances.

  • PFAS stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, a group of more than 12,000 synthetic chemicals
  • In activewear, PFAS enter primarily through DWR (durable water repellent) fluoropolymer coatings and some fabric dyes and finishes
  • Classified as persistent: they do not break down in the environment, water supply, or human body
  • Linked to thyroid disruption, immune suppression, and increased cancer risk at elevated exposure (Fenton et al., 2021)
  • California's SB 903 restricts PFAS in apparel from January 2025, with full enforcement expanding through 2028
  • TENCEL Lyocell fiber does not contain PFAS and does not require fluoropolymer finishing to perform
  • OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification tests for PFAS and provides third-party confirmation of their absence

What Are PFAS?

What does PFAS stand for?

PFAS stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances. They are a large class of synthetic chemicals, numbering more than 12,000 individual compounds, characterised by carbon-fluorine bonds. The carbon-fluorine bond is one of the strongest in chemistry, which is why these substances resist breakdown in the environment, in water, and in the human body. This persistence is the basis for the term forever chemicals. They were first developed in industrial applications in the 1940s and entered widespread commercial use across consumer products, non-stick cookware, food packaging, firefighting foam, and textiles.

Why are PFAS called forever chemicals?

Because they do not degrade under normal environmental conditions. Most organic compounds break down through biological, chemical, or photochemical processes over time. The carbon-fluorine bonds in PFAS resist all of these degradation pathways. Once PFAS enter a water supply, soil system, or human body, they accumulate. The US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has found detectable PFAS in the blood of the overwhelming majority of Americans tested in national biomonitoring surveys, reflecting decades of exposure across consumer products, water, and food packaging.

Are all PFAS the same?

No. PFAS is an umbrella category covering more than 12,000 distinct compounds with varying chemical structures and toxicity profiles. Long-chain PFAS such as PFOA and PFOS have been the most studied and carry the most established health associations. They have been phased out of most manufacturing under regulatory pressure. Many manufacturers replaced them with short-chain PFAS, which were initially considered safer but have since been found to also be persistent and potentially harmful. Fenton et al. (2021), in Environmental Health Perspectives, reviewed the evidence on PFAS as a class and concluded that the assumption of short-chain PFAS safety was not well supported by the available data.

PFAS in Activewear

Do leggings contain PFAS?

Some do. Research by Peaslee et al. (2020), published in Environmental Science and Technology Letters, tested a range of athletic and outdoor garments and found PFAS in a significant proportion of samples. The contamination was linked primarily to fluoropolymer DWR coatings applied to fabrics for water and stain repellency, and to certain fabric dyes and finishing chemicals. Polyester and nylon-based activewear is more commonly treated with these coatings than natural fiber alternatives, though fiber type alone does not determine PFAS presence. Dyeing and finishing can introduce PFAS into any garment regardless of what the underlying fiber is.

How do PFAS get into activewear?

There are three main routes. The first is DWR coatings: durable water repellent treatments applied to fabric surfaces to repel water and stains. Fluoropolymer DWR formulations are PFAS-based. The second is fabric dyes and finishing chemicals: some textile dyes and finishing agents used across the industry contain PFAS compounds as processing aids. The third is fiber production: certain synthetic fiber manufacturing processes have historically used PFAS as processing lubricants, though this route is less common with tighter regulatory oversight. Of the three, DWR coatings account for the largest intentional use in the activewear category.

Are all polyester leggings toxic because of PFAS?

No. Not all polyester leggings are treated with PFAS. Polyester fiber itself is not inherently PFAS-containing. The risk comes from the finishing treatments applied to the fabric after the fiber is made. Polyester activewear marketed as water-resistant, quick-dry enhanced, or stain-resistant is more likely to involve fluoropolymer treatments than basic polyester garments. The concern with polyester more broadly relates to its petroleum derivation, microplastic shedding, and odour retention rather than PFAS specifically. PFAS in activewear is a finishing problem, not an inherent fiber problem, though natural fibers require fewer finishing treatments and carry lower overall chemical load.

What is DWR and why does it matter for PFAS?

DWR stands for durable water repellent, a coating applied to fabric surfaces to cause water to bead and run off rather than soaking in. Fluoropolymer DWR formulations, which use PFAS compounds to create the repellent surface, have been the industry standard for decades because they perform reliably across wash cycles. Non-fluorinated DWR alternatives exist and have improved significantly, but fluoropolymer DWR remains widely used in outdoor and performance activewear. For activewear that makes no water-resistance claims, DWR treatment is less common. TENCEL Lyocell activewear does not require DWR treatment to perform its core function of moisture management and breathability.

Is PFAS-free activewear the same as non-toxic activewear?

PFAS-free is one component of non-toxic activewear, not the whole picture. Non-toxic activewear more broadly covers the absence of PFAS, phthalates, heavy metals, formaldehyde, azo dyes, and other chemical classes of concern. A garment could be free from fluoropolymer DWR coatings but still contain phthalate-based dyes or heavy metal-containing pigments. Third-party certification such as OEKO-TEX Standard 100 tests for more than 1,000 substances across all these categories and provides a more complete non-toxic confirmation than a single-substance claim. Bellissima's non-toxic activewear collection is built on TENCEL Lyocell fiber, which holds OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification at the fiber level through Lenzing AG.

Health Concerns

Are PFAS in activewear dangerous?

The honest answer is that the health research is serious enough to warrant concern but the specific risk from activewear exposure is not fully quantified. PFAS exposure from multiple sources combined, including water, food packaging, non-stick cookware, and textiles, is associated with thyroid disruption, reduced immune function, altered hormone levels, and increased risk of certain cancers at elevated blood concentrations. Fenton et al. (2021), in Environmental Health Perspectives, conducted a comprehensive review of PFAS health effects and concluded that the evidence supports regulatory concern across the class. Whether activewear is a significant exposure route relative to contaminated water or food packaging depends on individual circumstances and the specific garments worn. The precautionary case for avoiding PFAS in clothing worn close to skin during exercise, when body temperature is elevated and skin permeability increases, is reasonable.

Can PFAS absorb through skin from activewear?

Dermal absorption of PFAS from treated textiles is an active area of research. Frederiksen et al. (2023), writing in Environment International, found measurable PFAS migration from treated textiles under conditions simulating sweat contact, and concluded that dermal exposure from clothing is a relevant route of human PFAS uptake that warrants further study. The extent of absorption depends on the specific PFAS compound, the concentration in the garment, skin temperature, sweat, and duration of contact. During exercise, all of these factors that increase potential absorption are simultaneously elevated: skin temperature rises, sweat production increases, and garments are worn for extended periods in close contact with skin.

What did the California PFAS clothing law do?

California's SB 903, signed into law in 2022, restricts the manufacture, distribution, and sale of apparel containing intentionally added PFAS. Restrictions on certain categories including children's apparel began in January 2025, with broader apparel categories covered by January 2028. This is the first US state law specifically targeting PFAS in clothing. It is significant for the activewear market because it effectively sets a regulatory floor that major brands selling into California must meet, which in practice means national sourcing and manufacturing changes. Similar legislation has been introduced in other states and at the federal level. The California law and its 2028 expansion date are the basis for the projected increase in consumer search volume around PFAS-free activewear through 2026 and 2027.

How to Avoid PFAS in Activewear

How do I know if my leggings contain PFAS?

There is no requirement for brands to disclose PFAS on garment labels in most markets, which makes consumer identification difficult without third-party testing or certification. The most reliable indicators are: (1) OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification at the finished-product level, which tests for PFAS as part of its substance screen; (2) GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification, which prohibits PFAS in certified production; (3) brand transparency about their DWR treatments, specifically whether they use fluorine-free DWR alternatives. Water-resistant or stain-resistant marketing claims without corresponding non-fluorinated DWR disclosure are a flag worth investigating. Plain activewear without water-resistance claims from brands using natural fibers is lower risk.

Does TENCEL Lyocell contain PFAS?

No. TENCEL Lyocell fiber is made from wood cellulose using NMMO, a non-toxic organic solvent, without any fluorinated compounds in the fiber production process. The fiber holds OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification through Lenzing AG, which confirms the absence of PFAS among the more than 1,000 substances tested. TENCEL does not require fluoropolymer DWR treatment to perform its core activewear function of moisture absorption and breathability. Its moisture management works through the fiber's inherent hydrophilic properties, not through surface chemical coatings. Bellissima's PFAS-free leggings collection uses TENCEL Lyocell fiber for this reason.

What should I look for when buying PFAS-free activewear?

Look for three things in combination. First, fiber: natural or plant-derived fibers (TENCEL Lyocell, organic cotton, merino wool) carry lower inherent chemical load than synthetic alternatives and do not require fluoropolymer finishing to function. Second, certification: OEKO-TEX Standard 100 at the finished-product level tests for PFAS and more than 1,000 other substances. Fiber-level certification covers the raw material but not the dyes and finishing applied to the garment. Third, transparency: brands that disclose their DWR treatment approach, dye houses, and finishing chemical choices are more trustworthy than those making general non-toxic claims without substantiation. A brand that states its honest limitations, including what its certification does and does not cover, is a stronger signal of credibility than one that claims blanket safety without specifics.

Is fluorine-free DWR actually better?

For PFAS avoidance, yes. Fluorine-free DWR formulations do not use PFAS compounds and are therefore not subject to the same persistence and bioaccumulation concerns. Performance comparisons show that fluorine-free alternatives have improved significantly and now approach fluoropolymer DWR on water repellency in many test conditions, though long-chain fluoropolymer DWR still outperforms in sustained heavy rain exposure. For activewear rather than outdoor technical garments, water repellency through DWR is rarely a functional requirement. Most activewear is designed to manage sweat from the inside, not repel rain from the outside. For everyday studio and gym activewear, the performance trade-off of fluorine-free alternatives is essentially irrelevant.

Bellissima and PFAS

Is Bellissima activewear PFAS-free?

Bellissima's Sempre collection is made from 92% TENCEL Lyocell and 8% spandex. The TENCEL Lyocell fiber holds OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification through Lenzing AG, which includes testing for PFAS. The fiber does not contain PFAS and does not require fluoropolymer finishing to perform. Bellissima does not apply DWR coatings to its garments. The honest disclosure: Bellissima currently holds OEKO-TEX certification at the fiber level through Lenzing, not yet at the finished-product level. Finished-product certification, which would cover dyes and threads in addition to the fiber, is in progress. We state this distinction clearly rather than claiming full finished-product certification we do not yet hold.

Why does Bellissima not claim microplastic-free?

Because the Sempre collection contains 8% spandex, which is a synthetic elastane that sheds microfibers during washing. A microplastic-free claim requires 100% natural or plant-derived fiber content. At 92% TENCEL Lyocell and 8% spandex, that claim is inaccurate and Bellissima does not make it. The TENCEL Lyocell component does not shed synthetic microplastics. The spandex component does. Both facts are stated. This transparency is a deliberate choice: accurate information builds more durable trust than overclaiming. See Bellissima's full natural fiber activewear collection for the complete product range.

Sources

Fenton, S.E., et al. (2021). Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substance Toxicity and Human Health Review: Current State of Knowledge and Strategies for Informing Future Research. Environmental Health Perspectives.

Frederiksen, M., et al. (2023). Dermal Uptake of PFAS from Treated Textiles. Environment International.

Lenzing AG (2023). Annual and Sustainability Report. Lenzing Group.

Peaslee, G.F., et al. (2020). PFAS in Clothing. Environmental Science and Technology Letters.

US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. National Biomonitoring Program: PFAS. CDC.